The best time to go backpacking in Canyonlands is in the spring and late fall. It is a fantastic way to get back on the trail after a long winter.

I’ll cover planning your trip, safety in the desert, optional routes, and my personal Canyonlands backpacking experience.

If you’re looking to plan a backpacking trip to Canyonlands, this blog is for you!

Just a heads up! This post contains affiliate links, which means I could earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support!

Everything You Need to Know for Backpacking in Canyonlands

Backpacking in Canyonlands is no joke. What I thought would be a relatively straightforward backpacking trip quickly devolved into a trail safety nightmare. But I’m not trying to scare you! It was absolutely phenomenal, and I hope you can learn from some of my mistakes.

As a Pacific Northwest gal, I’m used to moderate temperatures even in the summer and plenty of water resources. When I’m hiking in Washington, I typically only bring a 1.5 L filtering water bottle on the trail, because I know I’ll be able to fill up along the way. After all, water is one of the heaviest items you carry when backpacking.

Anyway, I’ve been using my springs for some early-season backpacking trips. Canyonlands is a fantastic choice for spring backpacking. Here is everything you need to know to go backpacking in Canyonlands.

Let’s get into it!

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Quick Guide to Visiting Canyonlands

Canyonlands National Park is a large park outside of Moab that consists of three main zones: Island in the Sky, Needles, and The Maze. All three have backcountry zones you can explore.

When people visit Canyonlands, they typically explore the Island in the Sky District due to its proximity to Arches National Park and Moab. However, it is extremely common to visit only the Island in the Sky when road tripping the Utah Big 5: Zion, Arches, Canyonlands, Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef.

If you’re beginning to plan, use this quick guide to help with logistics!

• ✈️ Getting there: I’ve used three airports to fly into when visiting Utah’s National Parks: Denver International Airport, Salt Lake City International Airport, and Las Vegas Airport. Salt Lake City is the closest. Find affordable flights here.
• 🚗 Getting around: If you’re flying to Utah, you’ll need a vehicle to get around. Jeeps are a popular rental in the area because of ORV routes. Check rates here.
• 🏨Where to stay: Moab is the closest major city to Canyonlands. I love staying at Expedition Lodge and Glamping Canyonlands. Find lots of hotel options on Booking.com
• 🗓️When to visit: October – April
• 🧗‍♂️ What to do: Even if you’re coming to backpack, there is still plenty to do in the area! I suggest taking a few days to enjoy the area in addition to backpacking. You can book activities like ATV tours, canyoneering tours, and even whitewater rafting. Find other activities here.
• ⏰ How long to visit: Take 2 – 3 days to backpack in Canyonlands and an additional 2 days to enjoy the surrounding area.
• 🎟️ Entrance Fees & Permits: You must reserve your backpacking permit in advance on recreation.gov. You also need a $30/vehicle for a 7-day permit or an America the Beautiful Pass ($80 annually).

Have questions about planning your trip? Drop them in the comments. I would be happy to help!

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Know Before You Go

Backpacking in the desert takes some planning and preparation! Here is everything you need to consider and plan for before getting to Canyonlands for your backpacking trip. With the number of safety hazards to consider, this is a major backpacking trip. Don’t let a short distance or low elevation gain route convince you it will be easy…like I did.

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Permits for Backpacking in Canyonlands

For an overnight in Canyonlands, you will need to secure an overnight backcountry permit on Recreation.gov. An overnight backcountry permit can be made for up to 5-7 people and up to 14 nights.

It is important to note that once you reserve your route on Recreation.gov, you will not receive the permit until park staff review your itinerary. I will share some recommended itineraries below.

Important Dates

Permits for different dates throughout the year are released for the three central districts at various times. Review the “Important Dates” table below from Recreation.gov to help determine WHEN you need to reserve your permits for the time of your preferred trip.

Backpacking permits in the needles district between December 8th and February 12th are self-issued at the visitor center.

Reserving Your Site

When you go to reserve your site, you will need to know the following information:

1. Starting Area: The Neddles, Island in the Sky, or Maze/Orange Cliffs
2. Trip Start Date
3. Number of People in Your Group
4. Site or Zone

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Weather in Canyonlands

Canyonlands is considered a “High Desert” Ecosystem. High desert ecosystems are extremely hot in the summer and cold in the winter. There is typically very little precipitation throughout the year, which limits plant growth.

Because of this, I would not recommend backpacking in the summer, as the high heat and low water availability make it unsuitable.

Check out the average temperatures and precipitation for Canyonlands below.

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What to Pack for Desert Backpacking

This is everything I brought with me on the trail.

Anything with an asterisk (*) is an item I wish I had brought with me.

• Backpack: I’ve been using the Osprey Aura for five years now, and it is one of the most popular full-frame women’s backpacks.
• Tent: For this trip, I used a new tent! I brought the Durston X-Mid Pro. I really enjoyed using it on this trip and how to take it out more in Washington.
• Sleeping Pad: To save weight in my pack on this trip, I brought the Sea to Summit Ether Light XT, which weighs only 17.5 oz.
• Sleeping Bag: Temperatures were in the 40s at night. I used the Sea to Summit Spark Sleeping Bag as a quilt.
• Pillow: For ultimate comfort, I used the NEMO Fillo Elite pillow. It is my partner’s but since they weren’t using it, I left my NEMO Fillo at home and opted for the cozier version.
• Animal Safe Food Storage: As someone who typically has to bring a bear canister on all of my backpacking trips, I was relieved to only have to bring a URSACK.
• Jetboil: For this trip, I brought my Jetboil since I was only using it to heat up water. If I were rehydrating my homemade backpacking meals, I would have brought my MSR Pocket Rocket and Titan Kettle.
• Fuel: Don’t forget fuel! If you’re flying in, you’ll have to pick some up after you land. You can typically get it at REI or any store with a large outdoor section. Remember, you cannot bring fuel canisters on your flight.
• Spork: I love my long-handled spork.
• Backcountry Mug: You can’t have your morning coffee without a hyperlight mug!
• Coffee: I’ve been using the Kuju Single-Serve pour-over coffee while backpacking. It is a little messier than instant coffee, but worth it.
• Food: If you can manage it, I’d recommend NOT bringing dry food as a way to conserve water. Otherwise, my favorite backpacking meal is the Hatch Green Chili Mac! I packed enough calories for an additional day on the trail to play it safe.
• Electrolytes: One of the most important tools to conserve water on the trail is drinking electrolytes.
• Nalgene: I used a Nalgene to drink water on the trail.
• Water Reservoir: I brought the 4 liter water reservoir by HydraPak and my friend, Maddy, brought a 10 liter water reservoir by HydraPak. You need LOTS of water on this trip.
• Water Filter: Even though there wasn’t any water to filter on the trail, I brought my gravity filter by Katadyn just in case.
• Headlamp: You’ll need a headlamp. I use the Black Diamond Spot because it is rechargeable and has a red light setting. If you’re looking to do some stargazing in Canyonlands, a red light is a must.
• Hiking Boots: Oboz Bridgers are my favorite hiking boots. They are well structured with plenty of support and traction.
• Wool Socks: Wool socks are your greatest tool when it comes to combating potential blisters. I use Darn Tough socks because of their lifetime warranty.
• Camp Shoes: My go-to camp shoes are Teva Hurricanes because I can hike out in them if needed. There isn’t a better feeling than taking off your hiking boots and putting on camp shoes.
• Sports Bra: I use the Branwyn Merino Wool Sports Bra.
• Hiking Shirt: I packed the Backcountry Tahoe Sun Hoodie.
• Hiking Pants: I wore Athleta Leggings, but Convertible Hiking Pants would be preferred while backpacking this trial.
• Jacket: My Cotopaxi Fuego Hooded Down Jacket comes with me on every backpacking trip.
• Sun Protection: Bring plenty of sunscreen, lip balm with SPF, a hat, and sunglasses.
• Trekking Poles: Trekking poles were needed for my tent, but they also came in clutch for long days on the trail.
• First Aid Kit: I like using the Adventure Med Kits because you can purchase them based on the number of people and days you plan on being on the trail. Make sure you pack a blister kit, burn ointment, and an emergency blanket just in case.
• Printed Map: You’ll need a detailed topographic map of the area you’re backpacking in. An old-school map is the best way to understand your route.
• GPS Device: I brought my Garmin InReach Mini 2. I used it to check the weather report once I got to camp and to inform my partner on how things went.
• Toiletries: Bring whatever you need to be comfortable on the trail, such as a toothbrush, toothpaste, face wipes, Kula Cloth, and medicine.
• Wag Bag: In the desert, you need to pack out all solid human waste (your poop). Wag Bags are the best way to do this from a smell and hygiene standpoint. For a three-day trip, I brought three with me, but I think it would be best to bring one more than the number of days you’ll be on the trail. I used the PACT Outdoor Pack Out Kit and loved it.
• Printed Permit: You need to keep your printed permit on you at all times. Consider printing multiple, just in case.
• Camera: I brought my Fuji X100V with me on this trip.

Have questions about gear? Let me know in the comments!

Find the Best Hiking Trails in Moab Here!

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Tips for Desert Backpacking

If you haven’t spent much time in the desert, consider some of the tips I learned as someone who is used to hiking in mild temperatures with lots of water access.

Bring Plenty of Water

Water availability is one of the main issues you will run into when backpacking in Canyonlands. There is little water availability in the park, and those water sources dry up in spring. Canyonlands recommends carrying 1 gallon of water if you’re going on a day hike.

Maddy and I brought 2.5 liters of water per day, but in order to be more comfortable, we should have brought 3 liters of water per day.

Pack plenty of water and a means for purifying more. On day hikes, you could bring a lifestraw or filtering water bottle.

Morning and Evening Hiking

By hiking predominantly in the morning and evening, you will avoid the high heat of the day. Overexerting yourself when the sun is at its most powerful, you risk heat stroke, exhaustion, and exhausting your available water.

While this isn’t always possible to do when you have a lot of miles to complete in a day, even starting one or two hours earlier will be extremely helpful. An early start could be the difference between a pleasant desert hike and a dangerous one

Sun Protections

When it is extremely hot outside, it can be really appealing to wear shorts and tank tops. However, the more exposed skin you have, the more prone you are to burns. Wearing lightweight, loose clothing with UPF will save your skin from burns when you ultimately forget to reapply sunscreen throughout the day.

My first day on the trail, I forgot to put on chapstick with SPF in it, and my lips ended up getting burned. Thankfully, it wasn’t too bad because of the shade my hat provided, but it was still bothersome throughout the rest of the trip.

Opt for polarized sunglasses with UV protection.

Flash Floods

Depending on when you complete your trip, flash floods in Canyonlands are possible. Since the high desert is extremely dry, water is not easily absorbed into the soil, making any rain at high elevations extremely dangerous.

Flash flood risk is high in the southwest between July and October.

If a flash flood were to occur, you need to get to high ground. This could mean scrambling off-trail to a higher elevation. Canyon bottoms like the ones in Canyonlands collect water quickly, and it doesn’t take lots of rain for flooding to occur and rise to dangerous levels.

Navigating Desert Trails

Most of the trails in Canyonlands are marked with cairns, small rock piles, every handful of feet to help with trail navigation. Route finding in the desert can often be difficult as you walk over large rocks and through sandy areas.

A park ranger in Chesler Park told us that when we get to an area where we might get lost, we should hike to a cairn, identify where the next cairn is, walk to it, and repeat. If we get lost, we should walk to the last cairn we were at and try to find the next one.

In addition to utilizing the park cairns, bring a paper map with distinct topographic lines.

For more tips on hiking in the Desert, check out Maddy’s Guide!

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Water Scarcity in the Desert

Depending on where in Canyonlands you are backpacking, water availability will vary and is often a limiting factor when it comes to planning a route.

Island in the Sky: Due to the landscape, reliable water sources are limited. Once you navigate below the White Rim Road to the Green River and the Colorado River, there is water availability; however, the river water is silty and is likely to clog your water filter.

The Needles: There is water available in the canyons east of Chesler Park(the most popular area), but water is limited and water sources will dry up by late spring.

The Maze: There are some springs with potable drinking water, but there are no available water sources at the Hans Flat Ranger Station leading into the Maze, so make sure you already have water going into the area.

Snag an Arches & Canyonlands Road Trip Guide Here!

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Backpacking Routes in Canyonlands National Park

When it comes to planning a backpacking route in Canyonlands National Park, the first decision you make is what area of the park you want to backpack. Backpacking routes aren’t as straightforward in Canyonlands as they are in other National Parks.

It is more of a “choose your own adventure” style of backpacking, but some routes in Canyonlands have become popular over the years.

I’ll share the top backpacking routes in each of the main areas of Canyonlands below, but know that you can truly make a route of your own. Once you’ve chosen the area you want to backpack in, you can open the National Park Service Map for that area and trace out your route. Don’t feel limited by routes that everyone else does.

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Needles District

The Needles District is the most popular area in Canyonlands for backpacking, with the spring and fall being the most heavily trafficked seasons. If you are planning on backpacking in Needles, secure your permits ASAP. Reference the table above with important dates so you can snag a permit as soon as it becomes available.

For water updates, call the Needles Visitor Center before your trip. They will provide insight on water availability, if there is any.

While most of the Needles District has established campsites for you to reserve, there are some areas with no established campsites. In areas with no established campsites, you will reserve a permit for an “at-large zone” and have to find a spot within that area.

The Big Needles Loop

• Distance: ~23 miles
• Difficulty: Moderate/Hard
• Days to Complete: 3 – 5 Days
• Starting Point: Squaw Flat Trailhead
• Points of Interest: Chesler Park Overlook, Druid Arch, Pinnacle Formation, and Peekaboo Spring
• Recommended Campsites: CP3, LC3

If you’re looking to reduce the mileage on this trail, you can begin at Elephant Hill Trailhead.

Trip Length	Campsite	Miles Per Day
Three Days, Two Nights	1 – DP1 2 – CP3, CP4, CP5	1 – 7.7 miles 2 – 8.6 miles 3 – 5.6 miles
Four Days, Three Nights	1 – DP1 2 – CP3, CP4, CP5 3 – LC3	1 – 3.7 miles 2 – 5.4 miles 3 – 2.8 miles 4 – 5.1 miles
Five Days, Four Nights	1 – DP1 2 – CP3, CP4, CP5 3 – LC3 4 – LC1	1 – 7.8 miles 2 – 3.9 miles 3 – 5.4 miles 4 – 2.8 miles 5 – 6.4 miles

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Island in the Sky

Island in the Sky is one of the most challenging areas in the park to backpack. To begin your trek, you will lose almost 1,000 feet of elevation, which you will gain as you hike out.

Most backpacking trips in Island in the Sky are single-night and utilize at-large backpacking zones.

The Island of the Sky area has two main backpacking routes: Syncline Loop and Murphy Trail Loop.

Syncline Loop

• Distance: 8.1 miles round trip
• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Days to Complete: Day Hike or Overnight
• Starting Point: Upheaval Dome
• Points of Interest: First & Second Overlook of Upheaval Dome
• Campsite: Syncline Camp

Syncline Loop is considered the most challenging hike in the park and is where most park rescues occur. There are no water resources along this route.

Murphy Loop

• Distance: 10.8 miles round-trip
• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Days to Complete: Day Hike or Overnight
• Starting Point: Murphy Point Trailhead
• Points of Interest: Murphy Point (side trail)
• Campsite Recommendation: Murphy Hogback C

A section of this trail intersects with the White Rim Road. There are no water sources at or above the White Rim Road. You will need to pack all the water for your trip.

Find the Day Hikes in Canyonlands Here!

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The Maze

The Maze district of Canyonlands National Park requires a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle to drive on the roads leading to the trailheads. Like The Needles, permits are in high demand for Spring and Fall.

There are a few springs in this area with potable water. Check with the Hans Flat Ranger Station in advance for information on water availability. Even if water sources are sited in this area, consider packing in all the water you may need for the trip. You will also need to bring a rope to get your backpack up and down the canyon in areas where you cannot carry it.

If you’re backpacking in The Maze, consider completing the Harvest Scene loop trail.

Harvest Scene

• Distance: 8.9 miles round-trip
• Difficulty: Hard
• Days to Complete: Preferably 3 Days, can be done in 2 Days
• Starting Point: Chimney Rock Trailhead
• Points of Interest: Chimney Rock, Jasper Canyon, Harvest Scene, Chocolate Drops Rock Formation
• Campsite Recommendation: All At-Large Camping Area

Trip Length	Campsite	Miles Per Day
2 Days, 1 Night	At-Large near Harvest Scene	1 – 4.4 miles 2 – 4.2 miles
3 Days, 2 Nights	At-Large near Harvest Scene	1 – 4.4 miles 2 – May vary depending on planned side trips to Maze Overlook, South Fork Horse Canyon, or Horse Canyon. 3 – 4.2 miles

The Pictograph Panel can be viewed at Harvest Scene. The rock art originated from the Archaic People, Ancestral Puebloans, who lived in the canyon 8,000 years ago. The rock slab is named after one of the images of a figure holding a sheaf of rice grass. The rock art and any artifacts should not be disturbed.

There are primitive trails that connect Harvest Scene to the Maze Overlook and Horse Canyon, but excellent navigation skills are required. You will need a detailed topographic map and a compass to navigate this area without causing damage to the cryptobiotic soil.

Check out the Best Trails in Arches Here!

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Backpacking the Chesler Park Loop

Let me paint the scene for you. In March 2024, I backpacked Havasupai with my partner, where we met fellow blogger Maddy for the first time. Maddy and I chatted for about twenty minutes before parting ways. Shortly after getting back from Havasu, we messaged each other and decided to do another Spring Desert Backpacking Trip the following year.

We planned a three-day backpacking trip in Canyonlands, after which we would spend two days exploring the area and visiting Arches National Park in Moab.

I decided to drive and pick up Maddy from the Boise Airport and continue on our way to Moab. It was a 16-hour drive from my house to Moab, and 8 hours remained for my trip after snagging Maddy. We got into our hotel in Moab, Expedition Lodge, at around 11 PM and decided that we wouldn’t rush out in the morning to get to the Elephant Canyon Trailhead—our first mistake.

That is where this backpacking story begins.

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Day 1 – From Moab to CP3

Route:

• Chesler Park Trail 3.6 miles
• Joint Trail 0.4 miles
• Camp at CP3
• 1.4 miles to Slot Canyon and Back

Maddy and I woke up in Moab, UT, after a long travel day. Maddy having taken multiple flights to get from Lake Superior Area to Boise before getting in the car with me and driving eight more hours.

We still managed to roll out of bed, get our things packed, and dress ourselves by 8 AM. Enough time for us to grab coffee at Moab Coffee Roasters before getting back in the car and driving another hour and forty minutes to our trailhead.

When we got to the park entrance, Maddy paid for the entrance fee by purchasing a new America the Beautiful Pass. By the time we left for Boise, the pass had already paid for itself. The park ranger and the entrance verified that we knew where we were camping before sending us on our way.

We arrived at the parking area around 10 AM, where we made sure our water bottles were full, lathered ourselves in sunscreen, and tried one more time to get out our pre-trip number two. Both of us were unsuccessful in the latter. We were on the trial by 10:30 AM.

The trail begins relatively straightforward along the Chesler Park Trail; however, pretty early on, we made a wrong turn. If there aren’t readily visible cairns, park rangers will also use branches to mark off areas you shouldn’t follow. We stepped right over the first one, along with many others before us, as evidenced by the number of footprints in the dirt.

We passed Elephant Hill after climbing around some large rock formations. Keep to the right when passing the North Connector Trail to remain on Chesler Park. Pretty soon, we crossed a streambed where Elephant Canyon Campsites are located. Continue straight.

The rock formations in this section of the trail are gorgeous, and then the elevation up to Chesler Park Viewpoint begins. We rested about halfway to the top since there was a shaded area. At this point in the trail, we were conservatively drinking our water and were most definitely not drinking enough water.

After breaching the viewpoint, we ran into a volunteer Park Ranger who checked our permits, verified we knew where we were going, and asked about our water situation. She believed we had packed enough for our trip and gave us some pointers for getting to LC3, our campsite for the following night. She warned us that getting through the canyon is challenging in terms of effort and navigation.

We made it to our campsite for the night, CP3, and set up our camp in the shade. It had been a tough day for us after hiking through the hottest part of the day. After resting, snacking, and rehydrating for a while, we decided to go to the nearby slot canyon.

At our campsite is the junction between the Chesler Park Trail and the Joint Trail. We took the Joint Trail down to the slot canyon. It was so cool! Maddy, who gets claustrophobic, did not think it was cool.

Water Situation After Day 1

At the end of the day, we took stock of the available water that we had left. Since I knew water was going to be tight on this three day trip, I tried to conserve water, and by the end of the day had only drank about 0.5 liter. Not good.

We looked at the trail map to identify the areas the park ranger told us would be difficult and thought critically about whether we should realistically continue into Last Canyon the next day or head out.

Ultimately, we decided that even though we carried in 9 liters of water, the following day would be even more challenging than today. We could continue with our plan, but it would come at the cost of discomfort and potential dangers if we ran into trouble.

So, I messaged my partner with my Garmin InReach and had him book us a hotel in Moab for the following night. Jeep Safari was in town, so available accommodations were minimal.

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Day 2

Route:

• Chesler Park Trail 1.0 miles
• Elephant Canyon Trail 0.7 miles
• Chesler Park Trail 1.8 miles

After making the regrettable choice to start later in the day, the day prior, we got ourselves up around 6 AM to begin our hike out. We planned to continue on the Chesler Park Trail before veering off towards Druid Arch, and out and back, and then hike out following the Elephant Canyon Trail.

Shortly into our hike that morning, the terrain became rather precarious. We were sliding down steep inclines on our butts, jumping across slot canyons, scaling walls, and at one point crawling underneath rocks without our backpacks and tossing them to each other.

There were steep drop-offs, narrow trails, and dicey footholds.

When we reached the turn off for Druid Arch, which would add 4 miles to our route, we decided to skip it. After navigating the terrain of this section of Chesler Park, we were both eager to leave rock climbing behind us.

Continuing, we walked along a sandy river bed of Elephant Canyon Trail to connect back to the Chesler Park Trail and be on our way.

The best part? We didn’t need to conserve water, so we had plenty of it to drink by the time we reached the Chesler Park Trail, where shade is nonexistent.

We made it back and didn’t regret the decision to turn around. View our take on that decision here.

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If we didn’t quit…

If we were to continue with the planned route, we would have done the following:

Day 2

• Take the Chesler Park Trail 0.9 miles.
• Take the Elephant Canyon Trail 0.5 miles.
• South Connector Trail 1.9 miles.
• Wooden Shoe Canyon Trail 1 mile.
• Lost Canyon Trail 1.2 Miles.
• Camp at Lost Canyon 3.

Day 3

• Lost Canyon Trail 1.2 miles
• Wooden Shoe Canyon Trail 1 mile.
• South Connector Trail 1.9 miles.
• Elephant Canyon Trail 0.7 miles.
• Chesler Park Trail 1.8 miles.

This area is truly magical, and there are so many things to see in this part of the park, with plenty of side trips. I will be back to see the Lost Canyon Area and will be bringing a lot of water.

Want a Budget-Guide to Moab? Check this out!

Pack It Up

When it comes to backpacking in Canyonlands, the most important consideration is how much water you are willing to carry. Water is such a limiting factor when it comes to hiking and backpacking in the desert. With how much water you pack, you will be carrying a heavy pack, but the good news is that your pack will get increasingly lighter throughout your trip.

But! You’re bound to have a good time!

I hope this helps you plan a spectacular backcountry trip. If you have any questions about backpacking in Canyonlands, please drop them in the comments! I would be delighted to help.

Happy Backpacking!